Still in Zipolite


We seem to be stuck in Zipolite, and it has nothing to do with the bus.   We cant quite wrap our minds around this little, stuck in the 60’s free spirited hippy beach community, but we love it still the same.  Somehow life is simpler here- and given the life we’ve been living the last 6 months that’s quite a dramatic statement.

I guess the primary reason we are still here is that we have been hoping to connect with the local vw expert to see if he has any more luck with the engine than most...but that’s a pretty frail excuse.  We know his shop is only a 5minute drive away and we know where to catch him for his morning beer, yet still we somehow manage to put it off every day.  Eh, Manana.


Here in zipolite, we usually see both sunrise and sunset.  Even though we are in a tiny sand filled lot between 2-3 story buildings the colors of sunrise seem to weave their way through all obstacles to let us know the show has begun, should we chose to make our way to the beach for better seating.  The last few mornings the community here at dos estrellas has been doing sunrise yoga on the roof, and jen has happily joined in.  The mangled concrete and rebar may not be the typical zen studio motif, but the lighting cant be beat. yoga1yoga2 yoga4

The heat keeps us in the shade during the heat of the day which gives us a good chance to try and figure out our plans from here.  We know we want to do a bit more exploring on the Oaxacan coast and see Puerto Escondido and surrounds, but after that things get a bit more difficult.  We really struggle every time the conversation comes to leaving mexico.  When we dipped into Belize and Guatemala our tourist visas renewed and it simply seems a pity to not use every day.  We have so many beaches we have yet to explore between here and Jalisco (where we headed inland for the rally), but also are excited for the countries that await us when we drive south.  Either way means that once we’ve made the drive, theres a lot of backtracking to make it the other way... Probably yet another reason we haven’t pried ourselves away from our current spot- it would mean we might actually have to make a decision.

Instead we spend our days talking about what our future might hold and trying to tap into what we really want, or are looking/searching for. Me sketching out what our perfect beach house might look like, how we would renovate the dilapidated hotel down the beach if we could afford it (or if it was for sale), or what a remodel to our property back home might look like when we return.  Have I mentioned my brain doesn’t sit still very well.  Jen meanwhile, has never had troubles calming the mind and can get lost staring at the sea for hours.  I still have so much to learn...


After the sun starts to become a bit more manageable we head out on foot either to walk the length of the beach or to weave in amongst the nightlife on the pedestrian corridor.  Usually both.  We recall our first walk on the beach here.  Not uncomfortable with the nudity around us, but still taken aback after years of north american standards and even the conservative mexican style.  Now, our brains have fully adjusted and acclimated to what seems very natural and free.  Those who choose to wear bathing suits do while those who prefer not don’t.  We realize it’s no longer the first thing we notice when seeing a person lying on the beach, and only midway through a conversation yesterday did i glance down and realize i was talking to a naked man.

My spanish seems to have moved to the same level of comfort.  I have several times now found myself responding to someone in spanish before realizing that they asked the question in english.  It’s still probably that of a 6th grader’s and i need a lot of work, but i love being able to communicate with anyone and not feel like i’m a burden on the local i’m trying to enter a dialogue with.



After the sunset show, our most difficult decision is which local establishment to support for dinner.  Our favorite entrepreneur and his chill bar (with the best meat and veggie skewers we’ve had in ages) or the wood fired pizza place right outside our place.  Maybe the to-die-for chicken mole overlooking the beach.  When we pulled into town we were concerned about staying on budget for the month after all the driving, but every day here puts us well under.  It’s so cheap here that we can camp, eat out three meals a day and still come in under $30.  Amazing, and no wonder the backpacking crowd has found a stronghold here.

Tomorrow we will roll up the awning, put away the bbq that hasn’t seen use in a week and leave Zipolite to make the 5 minute drive to the mechanic in Puerto Angel.

Unless of course, we don’t.